Napoli: Beyond Pizza Bliss

It took me a good 36 years to finally grace Napoli with my presence. If you're from the North of Italy, you probably get the regional rivalry, but if you are not Italian you might not know that North and South of the boot don't always get along. Sure, you visit Rome, sunbathe in Puglia, or explore Sicily, but Napoli? Well, that's for the tourists and the locals who've mastered the art of dodging danger. I mean, let's be real—when you think of a day in Napoli, you also think of leaving your watch at home, your branded bag too, and maybe just be as basic as possible. And yes, there's some truth to it. But, and it's a big but, Napoli surprised me. So much so that I've made this trip twice in a short span (thank you, C job perks).

Both times, we have been blessed with 48 hours in the city, mainly under a perpetual drizzle that did nothing to dampen my love for Napoli and its wonders. We flew in straight from Dubai to Naples with Flydubai and settled into the strategically located NH Panorama Hotel in the historic center—basic (with great views) but very close to the Royal Palace and San Carlo Theater.

Now, let's talk highlights. We marveled at the Cristo Velato at the San Severo Chapel (book your ticket online in advance or no chance to enter in any season), delved into the depths of Naples with Napoli Sotterranea, walked around the Chiaia area, took a stroll along Lungo mare (seaside), soaked in the atmosphere at Via San Gregorio Armeno, admired the grandeur of Piazza del Plebiscito, and visited the Chiostri di Santa Chiara.

And that's just the tip of the Vesuvius! Throw in some underground metro exploration (Linea 1), a visit to Castel Dell'Ovo, a journey outside the city to Pompei, and, of course, a jaunt along the Amalfi Coast. You'd need a solid week, which we sadly did not have, to do justice to Napoli and its surrounding wonders—an intense week.

Intense like the food. Ah, the pizza—unbelievably good pizza. Sure, L'Antica Pizzeria Da Michele, Sorbillo, 50 Kalo are the ones you will read about on all tourist guides, but truth be told, you can find a darn good pizza on any corner without enduring an hour long wait. Pizza is an art, and the people of Napoli are the undisputed maestros.

But it's not just pizza; everything edible is a feast. Seafood is as fresh as a sea breeze, and anything fried is a crispy delight. However, when I think about Napoli, it's the Gran Caffè Gambrinus that comes to my mind. My American half, C, would fly back to Naples for work and have one mission: have the perfect cappuccino and a fresh pastry at Gambrinus, standing in a corner of this historic coffee shop, blending in like a local. You might think it's a tourist trap, and if you sit outside on the veranda overlooking the main square, you might be right—the prices there are as elevated as the view. So my advise is do as the locals do. It doesn't have to be a scene from "Eat Pray Love," trying to order in the craziness of a café. Most times, you can easily make yourself understood, but bonus points if you can order saying a few words in Italian. Order an Espresso and a Sfogliatella—simple, delicious, foolproof.

Napoli boasts fame for many things—some glorious, some not so much, like the garbage situation and the relentless crowds. Yet, it's all part of the folklore and charm. I've hailed a taxi in Napoli, with the driver nonchalantly chatting away on his phone (all the way from the city center to the airport), without wearing the seatbelt, puffing away on a cigarette (yes I do have the proof). During this interesting "fun" ride I looked outside to see scooters with three people on board—literal three-generation transport, with a little one up front, the middle generation at the helm, and an elder in the back. Unique, isn't it?

So, don't let the Napoli scare you off. Yes, be mindful of pickpockets, keep the bling discreet, and you'll be just fine, ready to soak in a memorable experience. Trust me; you might find yourself, like me, making plans for a return trip sooner than you'd expect.